The Upper Thames - Reading to Lechlade, the end of navigation

Back in Reading... 
on our way upstream to Lechlade, via Oxford, to the end of the Thames

It's Thursday 25th July and were back on the Thames.

We pulled into the Tescos mooring just as we got on the Thames. At the bank we tied the boat to two trees and went to Tescos to stock up, again.

Leaving the mooring outside Tescos in Reading

Shopping unloaded we set off up the wide waters of the Thames. 

Its pretty here, there's trees line the banks, lots of offices, people everywhere and lots of traffic all around. Into Caversham lock we go and the lock keeper does it all for us again! What a holiday! 

Going under Reading Bridge... the grey clouds are really menacing!

Reading bridge and Caversham bridge, next and I spot the old Euphony building in the distance, now empty and in need of demolition. This again is my old stomping ground, lots of memories here. I worked and lived here on and off for five years so it all comes flooding back.

We cruise on past the meadow of WOMAD and Reading Rock festival and out into the countryside once again. 

One of the trip boats making their way through the countryside

The river's huge here, lovely tree lined banks ....

.... and open countryside and hills

Mapledurham lock is next, all done for us again. we go a couple of miles outside Reading and pull up at Pangbourne meadows. 

We tucked ourselves away in this little corner of the meadows

Owned by the National Trust, we're able to moor up here for 24 hrs and we find a little spot right in the corner of the meadow tucked away under a lovely beech tree.

We walk Jack over the meadows and he has a couple of swims, we have a quiet evening.

On Friday 26th July we wake up to a beautiful mist over the river, looks eerie! Its going to be another hot day today! 

Queuing up at the lock, boats all over the place

After our walk we set off towards the first lock where even at 10am there was already a queue. Past Beale Park, lovely place here, and we go on for another 5 miles to Goring Lock. 

View from under a bridge ....

... and another 

A huge barge nestles in the bank in a lovely spot on the Thames

The river is beautiful here, wide and still, hardly any flow. Another mile and were at Cleeve Lock, and a lovely long stretch of 6.5 miles and were at Benson Lock. 

How about this for a summer house then?

All along the river people and dogs are swimming and having fun, rowers and canoeists paddle past us looking up at the 17 tons of steel slowly weaving around them.

Massive houses with posh gardens flow down to the river

Wallingford Bridge, swimmers enjoy the cool water

Heave, heave, don't let the boats clash!

A steam boat approaches us from behind

We look for moorings after Benson Lock, go past the big pub moorings, these are £10 a night. Just around the corner we spot a place just right for us. I have to turn the boat round to get the front in but all's great and we tuck ourselves into the steep bank. After cutting away at the tall grassy bank we can now get on and off the boat easily.

It's peaceful here, no walkers or cyclists, just a grassy path for the odd dog walkers about.

We have lunch and go off to explore. Lots of walks around here, all lovely grassy paths and fields.

We do get some entertainment here, in the form of a narrow boat grounding on the shallow bends of the river. It was red bouyed off, but some people take no notice of the warnings, and the boat was firmly stuck. 

The boat cut the corner and ended up on the sand bank

They tried for ages to get off, it wasn't budging. 

The widebeam approaches them from the back....

Luckily a widebeam Hotel boat came round the corner and did the only thing they could do and that was to tow them off. We were watching from the bank so couldn't do anything! They attached their front rope to the stern of the stuck boat and put the boats in reverse. 

... and with a lot of poling and engines revving....

With the help of several boat poles and hard revs on the engines they slid backwards off the sand bank. There were some very relieved people on that boat!

.... they were free and floating once again

After our bit of 'fun' we all went for a cool off in the river, Paul and I don't need a stick to encourage us tho!

This Red Kite came down to the river to cool off too!

After our swim we met a very distraught lady with two dogs. She had lost her third dog, a Jack Russell called Jack. It was her dad's dog and she was walking it for him. The dog had fallen down the steep bank into the reedy edge of the river, she didn't know where, he couldn't swim and he didn't make a sound! We scoured the river bank and eventually Paul spotted him about 3' below the bank. We had to clear the undergrowth to get to him and got blitzed by the nettles but we dragged him up the bank to be reunited with the lady! Good deed for the day.

Enough entertainment for one day we head onwards to walk Jack in the hilly fields around us, then back to the boat to catch some rays.

Beautiful meadows to walk, Jack had an amazing scurry in the fields, and got covered in grass seeds!

Our little swimming spot on the Thames

Saturday was forecast rain all day so we stayed at our little spot. It didn't actually rain till 5.30 pm, it was a lovely hot day, and we decided not to listen to the weather forecast ever again! Yeah, right!

We did a few jobs around the boat, Paul chopped some wood for our wood store, I cleaned the roof and apart from walking Jack, we didnt do much all day. But when it rained later on, it rained, buckets of the stuff, heaving wet lumps of falling water!

On Sunday it was windy, really windy. Sunny with showers. We walked Jack early and were off by 8.20am. 

Hmmmm.... which arch shall I take?

Mum and Mum bring their little one down to the river to drink

We arrive at the first lock before the lock keeper and while we're scratching our heads trying to work out the controls he's our knight in shining armour. Lovely lock keepers!

Out of the lock we've got a 2.5 mile stretch but its so windy. 

The view from the bottom of the lock

The gusts are a bit menacing, we lost Pauls fishing net off the roof today, just took off and sunk! Stormy clouds are brewing up all around and it's not a nice day. After our cruise of 9 miles and 3 locks we arrive in a very busy Abingdon. Lots of boats here but not many spaces. We go past all the moorings on the meadows, both sides full up. So I turn the boat round and squeeze into a spot too small, but the front end is in, the back end hangs past the mooring spot. 

We squeezed into a gap that was not quite long enough....

We later discover why no one was in this little spot when Paul got stung on his arm through his shirt by a nasty wasp. There was a very busy nest at the back end of the boat and the wasps were now aggravated by us disturbing them. We had some wasp powder so stuck a load of that down the hole and hoped they'd go away and die.

.... opposite the huge trip boat that turned around right next to us twice a day

This place is busy. There's a huge trip boat that picks up his passengers twice a day on the opposite bank to us and they turn the boat round right beside our boat. It's a massive boat with two engines and its got some wave power!

We went for a walk around the meadows and into the town of Abingdon, Jack has become brilliant walking on the lead and you can now take him anywhere with no pulling problems. So I'm very happy about that!

The heavens opened....

 Back at the boat the heavy showers were interrupted by the occasional sunny spell. 

.... and then the sun came out

But there wasn't many of those! We stayed in and watched telly, at least we've got a telly signal and Internet and phone signal here, all good.

We're moored opposite a pub garden, there's lots of people around, walkers, boaters and cyclists. People swimming, rowers and canoeists. It's a busy area, but there's not many towns on this river to stop at, so everyone will probably stop here.

We decide to stay here for a few days as the weather's going to be terrible, very wet and very windy (we listened to the forecast again but surely they can't have got it wrong again?).

The rain kept coming, shoppers popping umbrellas up in Oxford

On Monday we catch a bus in to Oxford and have a lovely mooch around town in the rain. Tuesday it's wet again and we do supermarket shopping in Abingdon Co-op. 

Wednesday I had a hospital appointment at the John Radcliffe hospital so I caught a bus, in the rain, and attended my appointment while Paul stayed with Jack. All clear and back home we get a chinese takeaway for tea, not the best I've ever had but also not the worst.

Jack's totally oblivious to the beautiful sky behind him, but there's a storm brewing

Thursday 1st August, the weather is apparently changing today, its supposed to be a lovely sunny warm day, but very windy. We leave early and have to turn the boat round just past the bridge to face the right way again. The sun's shining but there's already a strong breeze. There's also been more flow since we've had all the rain in the last few days but its not that noticeable to the boat.

Past the mooring spot and a little way to the lock. It's before 9am so we have to do the lock ourselves. It's a push button one which we seem to have broken. The lock filled up but the doors won't open. I think I pressed too many buttons at once in the wrong order! The lock keeper soon arrived and turns out the electric trip had gone, and he pushed the buttons and we were all ready to go. 

We filled up with water above the lock and dumped rubbish.

I think the aliens have landed in this garden

And the sun keeps shining as we leave this huge lock

On our way now, the rivers very wide and tree lined, lovely grassy meadows around, very flat countryside.

Weve got 4 miles till Sandford Lock and on our way there we go through what I can only describe as 'kingfisher alley'. They were flying everywhere for about a mile stretch, swooping over the boat and resting in trees long enough for us to have a great view! Maybe they were young ones out for their first fly but there was a lot of kingfisher calling going on. Lovely, what a highlight!

Arriving at Sandford lock, the deepest on the Thames at 8' something, its still sunny but really windy. Onwards we go a couple of miles to Iffley Lock and only a mile or so later we pull over just before Donnington Road bridge. 

There's someone missing from this rowing boat, and its upside down! Oops!

Paul's found out there's a fishing tackle shop walking distance from the river. So he sets off to find it and only 20 mins later he's back with his bait in hand and a smile on his face. He's very happy he's got maggots!!

Boathouses line the river banks as we approach Oxford

Off we go again onwards to Oxford. 

Approaching Folley Bridge in Oxford

We go past the public moorings and under Folley bridge.

Round a sharp right hand bend...

Houses line the river banks now

A sharp right hand bend takes you through the built up areas, the houses and parklands, boats moored up and narrow channels overgrown with trees leaning over the river. 

In the queue at Osney Lock

Osney Lock is next and then the low Osney bridge, the one that stops all the high and mighty plastic boats getting any further! 

We've got spare head room under here but this bridge stops many boats from going any further

We get under comfortably and were on our way out of Oxford. 

Cows take a relaxing cool down on Port Meadow

The river opens up massively here, very shallow banks, sandy and beach like. You have to stick to the middle here, there's a massive meadow called Port Meadow on the right, hundreds of cows and horses graze the fields. On the left is lovely beachy bits with families out picnicking and the children splashing in the shallow waters edge. 

Leaving Godstow Lock with the ruins of the nunnery on our left

We get to Godstow Lock next, and we moor up just above the lock in a 'free for 24 hrs' spot right by the old Godstow Abbey, formerly a nunnery. Built in the 1200's its ruins still stand.

Our mooring for the night, outside the ruins of the old nunnery, Godstow Abbey

It's a lovely place, the walks are right on your doorstep, lovely empty cow fields kept short by hundreds of rabbits! Jack loved it, his best ever place yet!

This was a lovely place to get into the water and have a swim

 We went swimming in the river to cool off, so did Jack! It was lovely and quiet, few people wandering about, few people sitting about chatting, a couple of lads swimming. Jack loved it, so did we!

On Friday we went for a great walk with Jack, no bunnies were safe! Well, actually they all were cos Jacks too slow to catch them!

Jack plays in his garden for the evening

 We left the lovely nunnery by 10am and a mile upstream we got to Kings Lock. 

We met this stand-up paddle boarder on his way to London from Lechlade, in two days and nights!

This is the first manual lock on the Thames, all the ones before have been easy electric. The lock keepers have to work hard for their money this end of the river! It was a tiny lock, only 2'6" deep. 

Kings Lock, the first of the manual locks , the lock keeper has it sussed tho with this pole technique! 

Out the top of Kings Lock on our left we passed the entrance to the Oxford Canal, but we were continuing up the Thames on to Lechlade.

It's really windy today, bubbling grey clouds are all around us threatening rain, nasty day to be out on the river!

The river twists and turns all over the place, shallow corners and silted up sections are coned off with red and green marker buoys. The river is wide here but there's only the centre that you feel confident enough to cruise without grounding! It's like a slalom course!

It's so rural, not a soul about, not a sign of civilisation. We go through Eynsham Lock and it twists and turns even more, but little did we know what was ahead!

The wind was making the river choppy, unpleasant. We went through Pinkhill Lock, manually operated again by lock keepers and found a great spot in the corner of a lovely meadow only one other boat near (they leave soon after we get there, they were waiting for their cat to return before they could be on their way).

Moored up in a beautiful spot just above Pinkhill Lock

Absolute peace and quiet, not a soul about, no houses, cars or boats! Ha!

The walks were great, lots of grassy meadows. Jacks really happy now, plays outside with his toys. We saw a muntjac and were really close to it!

The wind is still gusting all around us, it's enough to blow your wig off! Its chilly in the evening so we sit in and watch telly, get all cosy in our little boat.

Leaving our isolated spot on a windy day

We left early on Saturday as the wind is getting up again today. It's not so breezy thismorning tho, there's even a bit of sunshine coming through the ever present clouds.

Overgrown trees make the bendy twisty river tricky to navigate

Paul's on 'look-out' patrol, he's got a better view from that end for oncoming boats

The river changes again to hairpin bends, twists in all directions and its through a wooded area. The trees are overgrown into the river and the tight corners make it tricky to navigate. Paul spent most of his time at the front ready to warn me of oncoming boats.

We arrived at Northmoor Lock, we were too early for the lock keeper so Paul did the lock. It's another manual one, but easy, he said! 

Holiday homes and plastic boats line the banks here...

... and there's a camp site in amongst the willow plantation, looks amazing

Camp sites spring up along the river banks, twisty turny once again. 

Just before Tadpole bridge we saw a spot we thought would be great to stop at so slowly I went towards the bank and before you know it I'm coming to a standstill on the bottom. We've grounded on a sand bank and the boats not budging. So using the pole and the engine in hard reverse inch by inch we get the boat off the bottom of the river and luckily we are on our way again. We go under Tadpole bridge and although there's a note in the map book for moorings, there's nothing in sight. 

Tadpole Bridge, all mooring reserved at the Trout Inn at Tadpole Bridge

So we carry on in the wind and cloudy skies. More manic hairpin bends and twists and curves for another mike and we get to Rushy Lock. The lock keeper told us there were moorings on the meadow just above the lock, so we went through and he was right, lovely meadow with a good bank to tie up to. Not only that, it was a sheltered sunny spot, willow trees shielded us from the increasing winds and the sun shone just for us!

We had our own little corner of the field again, big willows sheltered us from the winds

Jack had fun in this huge garden we had for the night

Jack had loads of fun in his new front garden and played like a puppy! The walks were great, round meadows that reached on for ever!

Fresh water swimmers on a swim towards Rushey Lock

There were swimmers and canoeists and a 'family of 4 and a dog' rowing down the Thames on a wild camping trek, all their gear stored in one rowing boat that they all shared.

The evening bought us some entertainment in the form of a farmer and his dogs rounding up the sheep in the opposite field, two collies doing the work and a springer spaniel, just like Jack, sitting on the back of the farmer's quad bike!

This could almost be our Jack on the back here, hitching a ride

All the sheep rounded up and the Springer is still hitching a ride on the back!

We had a very quiet evening, everyone tucked away from the wind in their cosy boats, not a sound from anything.

Sunday 4th August more high winds today. After a lovely walk with Jack we set off early again as the winds get worse during the day. We've got a twisty turney mile and a half to the next lock but this bit is slightly easier as its all open fields around and we can just see over the meadows for oncoming boats. The river is wider here, there's not many trees about to fall and lean over the river channel, but there's high banks and very shallow edges. We don't meet any boats and we get to Radcot Lock by 8.30am. 

A hedge sculpture at Radcot Lock, I'm sure there's a name for that?

We've got jumpers and coats on today, the weather is horrid, windy and dark.

Skies threaten rain all day, making it a very dull grey day

Paul does the lock and were soon out and on our way again. its taken us an hour to go one and a half miles and do one lock, its slow going but the bends and twists in the river means you cant go at any speed at all!

Twisty bendy river now, but at least its a bit wider 

We pass several camping and caravan sites, lots going on. The river straightens up a bit and we get to put the revs up a tad. 

Waiting in a lock for the lock keepers to open the gates for us

More right angle bends with bridges to line up and hairpin bends and we get to Buscott Lock, busy with day boats and gongoozlers.

Waiting on the Lock landing stage for my instructions of when to go in

Sharp right angle bends, hair pin corners and 'z' and 's' bends to negotiate

Another mile on and we get to St Johns Lock, the last on the Thames, only 2"10" deep, very pretty gardens with minature houses dotted around and a huge statue of Father Thames at the head of navigation, there to bid you a safe journey. 

Father Thames sits at the head of the River Thames, St John's Lock,  bidding you all a safe journey

Through the lock we go and another half mile just before Ha'penny Bridge we get to the moorings on the meadow. 

Looking towards Lechlade as we come out of St John's Lock

Moored up on a £4 a night mooring, just before Ha'penny Bridge in Lechlade.

Well, its actually a field full of cows! It cost £4 to stay here per night but weve got no choice really cos if you want to stop in Lechlade, this is the only place to stop!

Ten minutes after we pulled over on the cow field the heavens opened, the wind was battering the boat but we were safe and cosy indoors.

We had reached the end of the Thames, 130 miles and 45 locks! Done it!

Boats all moored up at the head of navigation on the meadows in Lechlade, we're second from the front....

We found lovely walks and meadows for Jack and Paul went off to see what the village of Lechlade was like and to get bread and milk. He came back very happy as there was also a fishing tackle shop so he could get maggots!

We had a quiet evening, no traffic noise from the bridge and we were safe and cosy out of the terrible weather. We decided we would sit out the wind and rain that was due tomorrow so on Monday we had a lay in, was disturbed only by the farmer coming to collect his mooring fees, £8 for two nights.

We walked Jack and explored Lechlade, lovely little town, very touristy and quaint. There was a lovely 'farm shop' where we bought Lechlade Sausages and local produce.

We chilled out all day, sheltering from the wind and rain. In the evening we out to the Riverside Inn in Lechlade for a celebrationary meal, great food, loads of it.... we're stuffed!

Tomorrow we leave Lechlade, the head of the Thames navigation, to go back to Oxford where we join the Oxford Canal and head north .......

Last entered 8.8.13 @ 16:59.