The Kennet & Avon Canal - Hungerford to Devises, 14th June 2013

Now for the 'not so challenging bit ......'

Friday, 14th June 2013

Getting ready to leave Hungerford Marshes

We were really excited about going, it's been a lovely place to stop for a couple of nights but we're leaving this morning. Hungerford Marshes have sheltered us from the wind and rain once again, loved every inch weve walked, but a new place for tonight will be great!

I woke up early and took Jack round the meadows here at Hungerford Marshes for the last time, back on the boat Paul had got things ready, engine running, mooring pins loose and we'd left by 8.30. its windy right now but its going to be windier later. 

 Guess the guys an accountant, a 'turf' accountant.... look at the roof!

 Going under the bridge into the next lock

 Beautiful views from the tiller

Massively leaky locks, call Bob the Builder!

The canal is beautiful still, the locks are easier than a few days ago. We did 11 locks and 6.5 miles today, on our own except for the last three locks, we were joined by a boat called Nestamay, turns out they're from Cosgrove and know Julie and Brian from Woodford really well! We chatted and got through the last three locks easily and quickly (there's about half a mile between locks now, thick and fast).

At one lock we nearly had a fatality. A couple if young girls were walking two lurcher type dogs and one dog decided to jump in the canal right by the top paddle as we were filling up the lock, the water was swirling round as it was sucking in filling up the lock. The dog was going down and just in time the girl grabbed its scruff and hauled it out! Phew! My heart doubled in beats per second!

 Beautiful area to moor, lovely towpath too!

Crofton Pumping Station, still a working pump house

As we got to the bottom of Crofton flight of 7 locks we went through the bottom lock and found some lovely 48hr moorings just below the Crofton pump station, built 200 years ago and now fully restored and in full working order. It still pumps the water to the summit if and when the electric ones regularly used now dont work.

The train line runs very close to the canal most of the way, but it wasn't at all intrusive

So we decided to stay there, it was quiet although there was a train line right next to the canal it rarely disturbed us. A few walkers and people visiting the pump station were about, the odd dog walker. It was 1pm and we had lunch and explored the walks around. 

There were loads again, beautiful meadows and woodlands with paths all the way, there was an old roman road used by dog walkers only, and acres and acres of fields with the edges cut for walkers, beautiful views! Wow! And a working windmill. It's awesome. We walked for miles, got back to the boat and went over to have a look in the pump station. There was a tour going on, so Paul joined them while I ate scones and drank coke! I went and got Jack and waited for Paul in the sunshine.

Back on the boat Paul fishes in the clear water, it's not like any other canal, so clear and clean! 

Catch of the day!

On Saturday it was forecast strong winds, up to 50mph! We're not moving today, to dangerous and stressful! So we have a massive walk with Jack, we all get knackered. We were out for ages! Lovin it!

Walking over the hills and fields was great

It was really cold later in the day so we lit a fire and stayed in, except for our second great walk! Cosy back in the boat, fires burning and we're sheltered from the wind.

On Sunday at 7.45am we left the mooring, Paul walked Jack up the remaining flight of locks as I bought the boat in and out of the flight of locks. 

We follow a wide beam up the flight but theyre preparing every lock for us, probably cos they feel guilty for pulling out in front of us in the lock flight! But no problem, we get to the top! The summit! 

The top lock at Crofton.... now a leisurely cruise for a little while

Now for the tunnel. It's quite a small one, about 500yds long, called Bruces tunnel and the furthest I've been before on this canal. 

 Entrance to Bruces Tunnel, the summit of the Kennet & Avon Canal

We enter the clean and non-cobwebby tunnel

So unknown territory from now on! There's now loads of grumpy fishermen line the bank having a fishing match, all moaning and tutting and shaking their heads in discust as we cruise slowly past them. 

The fisherman tuts and shakes his head in disgust... how dare boats use this canal!

Then we meet a widebeam and as the channels only narrow, we take up the whole width in passing. Behind us is the widebeam that pulled out on us earlier up the locks, they now have to pass the widebeam which is going the other way in a very narrow channel in the middle of a fishing match! Ggggggrrrrrr! The air is raging!

The two widebeams pass, much to the annoyance of the fishermen

Paul happily asked one fisherman, "caught much?" His reply, "I was until you came past and messed up my swim!" Pauls reply, "Think I'm right in saying the canals were built for boats..... Not fishing!" As I said, lots and lots of grumpy fishermen!

On we go down 4 locks and we pull up above the next lock on the water point at Wooton Rivers. Fill up, feed up and walk Jack in the rain....

Bit later the rain still hadn't stopped but we wanted to move on, start the long 15 miles of 'no lock' cruising! We've had so many locks to do, this is a real treat! So in the lock I go, as we're going down and the doors open (there's a bridge obscuring Paul's view) I see a BW workboat across the canal, totally blocking out passage.

Paul doing his strong man impression

So Paul leaps on with the boat pole and punts it back to the mooring it was on, tying up the boat best he could. Back on our way, the rain eases off a bit, I try out my new £1.99 poncho, and were enjoying the new scenery. 

Its hilly here, reeds line the banks, trees meet in the middle above our heads. It's beautiful, very rural, lovely views. We decide we'd like to moor in Pewsey on the 48 hr moorings, but as we came into Pewsey every single bit of the bankside moorings were taken, some doubled up, most seem pretty settled and not moved on. Not a spot to stop.

Boats are doubled up on the 48 hr moorings at Pewsey, I think someone needs to tell people here what a 48 hr mooring actually is. These boats haven't moved for weeks!

So no space for us. The banks are still high, reedy, shallow in places, difficult to get in anywhere. But were really keen to stop now, keep on scanning the banks for gaps..... Up ahead there's some boats shoved in the reeds, so we give it a go and eventually manage to get the front end in near enough for Jack to be able to get on and off. 

Nudging in the reedy bank is the only choice of mooring here!

We leave the back end out, no choice. After finding a great walk for Jack around three meadows and some woods, we settled back on the boat for the evening. we got talking to our neighbour, Irish Greg, who knew everyone on this stretch, knew how to get anything, chatted about all sorts. he had an 8 yr old Alsation called Tessa who just wanted to keep kissing Jack but Jack was having none of it, he actually manned up and gave her a little growl! See, hes got it in him!

We had no telly, Internet or phone signal here, and we walked Jack again. Paul fished, and caught no fish!

We had no sunshine today, in total it was a very 'no' day today!

In the morning on Monday we left in the drizzle after a lovely Jack walk in the meadows.

The canal opens up now, we can see the landscape all around us, hills and valleys all about, not so many trees so it seems lighter and brighter, and as we look over to our right side, there's a whacking great white horse cut out of the turf in the massive hill in the distance! 

It looks like its been cut out of the chalk hillside, looks amazing! We then came into Honey Street, seems there is a boatyard and a pub here, that's about it. But for some reason it's packed with boats every where, outside the pub is the 24 hr mooring.... One space left we gave it a go, slowly easing the boat in the space that never did look big enough, and it wasn't! 

So we went on a bit more, under a couple of bridges and we tried to get in to the bank, but no luck, too shallow to get near enough to get off.... Until we got to bridge 126 and I saw a small gap in the reeds and we got the boat in snuggled into the reeds with a lovely bit of bank to get on and off. 

It's quiet here, the bridge is a footpath bridge, one side of us is a massive riding stables/school and horses in fields and on the other side is meadows where we walk Jack, and he loves it!

Our view from the side hatch, still looking at the chalk horse in the hillside

He bounces high in the long grass, chasing make believe smells! A few people walk their dogs but no one else goes by. We met a guy called Ding, lived on wide beam he was doing up, lovely man. He was moored just around the corner, in the reeds, that's what you have to do on this canal! it was cold today, we went back to the boat and lit a fire, cosy now. 

We managed to get a telly signal here until a huge gust of wind took it flying. Crash! On to the roof it went, but not too much damage, and we were soon back watching telly.

Tuesday we walked Jack round the horse meadows and manage to clean him up using the horse water hose! He was caked in stinky mud and the hose was there! So we used it!

The area we've found out is called White Horse Hills, obvious really! There's another horse dug out of the grass in another hill near us too, there's horses all around and children going out on riding lessons over the bridge near us. we just see their hats bopping up and down as the bridge walls are to high to see them!

The brightness of the sun setting glows red on the bricks of the bridge

The sunset's this evening was amazing, stunning. I took a load of pictures and couldn't decide which ones to include, so I've got it down to these lot, you'll see why I had a problem choosing them!

The sunset is just starting to make everything around have a warm glow about it

In the morning we leave the remote but beautiful spot in Wiltshire for somewhere new, Devises is our destination, and its only 6.5 miles away, no locks (they're to come!). 2 hours we reckon. Should be there by 11am and get a spot to moor for the night. Moorings are few and far between, but we really have to be able to stop here! We need shopping, cupboards are bare, and to give us a whole day to do the 29 locks at Devises.

Reeded up canal in places makes meeting a boat a challenge!

So off we chug up the canal, very narrowed up in places with the reeds as they creep further towards the middle of the cut leaving a narrow channel to get through. In the distance we continually hear gun shots, there's a training place for the army on Sailsbury Plain and they're firing all the time, weird feeling as you feel you're out in the middle of absolutely nowhere, not a soul about and there's a war going off in the distance! 

Remote and isolated.... until the low boom... boom... boom ....boom of the army guns go off in the distance

We also hear so many different bird songs, we see so many different wild fowl on the canal, theres boats shoved in the reeds all about, some on their own and some in long rows lining the banks.

We spot a boat tucked in with a deisel sign at the front and pull over after sounding the horn. two people come out and we cat and get diesel, discuss the chance of him signwriting the boat when it's all painted as he's also a signwriter! Quote... £300! Um, bit steep i think! Maybe £200? We take his name and email etc and tell him well call him if we need him. We may still use him but bid him lower!

Diesel came to £50 as that's all we had, it gave us 52 ltrs so alls good on Happy Daze.

We spot another White Horse on another hill, think they must be breeding round these parts!

Arriving into Devises town was lovely. Slopey gardens lined the canal, all once very beautiful. Now a little forgotten.

It was 12 noon (that took us a good hour longer than it should have been) when we went under the two bridges of Devises to where the 72 hr mooring is. 

So spaces are rare here, you're lucky to get somewhere and as we scanned the mooring we saw there was nowhere. But within minutes a boat was moving off and we snuggley fitted in the space they had left.

 Just managed to squeeze in.....

We snuggley fitted in to the last spot in Devises

We felt relieved we'd got somewhere to stop, didnt have to start the flight of 29 locks today. We also felt hungry, so we walked to town and got some chips and Paul got his longed for maggots!

Beautiful rolling hills were here for the taking... and we took with vengeance!

Afterwards we walked Jack over some amazing meadows and through the best smelling woods yet, garlic everywhere, so much wild garlic you just had to get a whiff of that aroma and you were hooked! Carpets and carpets of garlic! Amazing! I wish I could have bottled that smell and shared it out with everyone.

The carpet of wild garlic gave out the most amazing smell

We go back to the boat and then go shopping, we found a Tescos and Sainsburys earlier on and we stock up on essentials and chocolate! Paul's fishing, I'm relaxing and Jacks zonked out in his chair.

We sit outside till it gets chilly, quiet place, no problems. Several boats have to nudge their way in as they too, don't want to tackle any more today!

It's Wednesday 19th June and we prepare ourselves for D-day .... that's Devises locks day!

The K & A Canal - Reading to Hungerford Marshes

On our way west... 

Wednesday 5th June, 2013

....... As we enter the canal it goes through some ugly bits of concrete until we get the short distance to Blakes lock. This lock is manned by a very black lock keeper man, his hat reaches about a foot above his head, im sure it's stuffed full of dreadlocks, or maybe even something less legal! He checks our licence and fills up the lock, were through and onto the canal .... Turn sharp right and we pull over in the lay by at the town moorings. A quick walk into town to get us some shoes and were off again, its sunny and were keen to get underway.

Out of the layby we immediatly get to the traffic lights that control the boats through the narrow and fast flowing section of the Oracle shopping centre. 

Its on red but as soon as we push the control button, it turns green and were off, high revs to get us through the narrow bridges and concreted sided section that goes right through the throng of shoppers. 

Out the other side is County lock, and a massive weir, the first of many. 

Only a 1 foot rise here, out the top and the river section is fast flowing again. we make very slow progress, creeping along, winding past overgrown trees and ugly road bridges.

The locks are hard, big and deep, tough gates, fast flowing sections of river flow in and out of the channel, shallow and slow. There's a fast river coming in from the left as we enter Fobney lock, and a fast flowing overflow coming in under the landing stage! The countryside surrounding us is amazing, green meadows, trees lining the river/canal, footpaths through woods and fields. 

We come into Burfield and just through Burfield bridge we pull over behind the row of boats moored up outside the pub, The Cunning Man. We go exploring and find a brilliant walk around lakes and meadows.

As arranged, we met Amanda at the pub, accompanied by a handful of my buddies from years ago, Tim and Tracey and Sherrie. 

Ex Euphony colleagues, lovely to see Timbo! We had a good feed up, and after coffee on the boat they left, and we went to bed.

On Thursday we woke early, sun shining, glorious day. Walked Jack and we were ready to go by 9.30am. 

Looking back at the bridge near the Cunning Man, our mooring spot for the night

We heaved up the flowing rivers, it's beautiful. The locks are all hard, tough, each ones different, the sides, the paddles that open in the top gates causing a massive rush of water as you fill up the lock, sending the boat hurtling across the lock to bang on the sides.

We go under the M4 again and the locks and swing bridges come thick and fast, the river's still flowing in and out, below and above the lock cuts. 

                         

We go through Garston lock, a marsh lock with no sides.

Tyle Mill Sanitary station is just below the swingbridge and lock, here we dump rubbish and fill up with water, have lunch and chat to another boater stopped here.

After a while we go through the swing bridge and lock and were looking for somewhere to moor up. Enough today, time to sit in the sun! 

We get to Padworth bottom lock, a monster of a lock, a 'bash your boat about' lock. To make it really difficult at this lock there are workers chopping down trees and setting fire to them, smoke billowing across the fields to the lock, wind gusting now as we're reaching the top. Boats getting blown about everywhere! Really want to stop now, through Padworth swing bridge and we push the front of the boat into the reeds, it'll do here, Jack can get on and off, were secure, it's quiet, there's walks. We're knackered.

We can't have a barbie cos the towpath isn't big enough and there's too many flies everywhere. Later we discover were moored next to a recycling plant, no smell, but at least we know why weve got swarms of flies in the boat! 

Find a really great walk here, around woods and lakes again, jacks having a great time!

We sat out in the front deck and ate pizza and watched the sun go down. 

By 10.30pm we were ready for bed, and bloody hell, the boat behind us has just started his engine up. Inconsiderate boater, we go to bed and try to ignore it ..... sleep.

In the morning (Friday) we walk Jack again and leave the 'fly' mooring by 9.30am. Its a cloudy day when we head towards Aldermaston Wharf, formerly Reading Marine, the Marina I rented my space from on the bank as my very first ever mooring 14 years ago! We're going to need diesel soon, here's a good as place as ever. So we decide were going to get it here.

Except that boats are 4 a-breast across the canal, all hire boats must be due back now or something, I can't find anywhere to stop, can't even get near!

The decision made for us and we go on, under the big lift bridge and into Aldermaston lock. 

Past the exact spot on the bank that was once my spot ...

...and onwards about a mile upstream to Frouds Bridge marina.

We turn left to go down the weir stream towards the marina, turning a sharp left into the massive lake with pontoons and moorings and deisel and a chandlery over the far corner. Diesel was £1.15 ppl! Mad price! So we got 50ltrs, gonna wait for the diesel boat, that'll be cheaper! A couple of things from the chandlers and we reverse out and leave the marina.

Out into the weir stream we head upstream to Woolhampton swing bridge and lock. 

Looks totally innocent, but this is notoriously difficult section here, a fast river comes in at the bottom of the lock sending boats bashing against the other side, completely missing the lock entrance! But you have to get the lock ready first, doors open, come back to the bridge, open that. Then you can go at full power under the sqew whiff narrow swing bridge, steering into the current of the river, and last minute turn into the lock, immediatly cutting out the revs! Phew! Go! ...... 

....... Made it! Knocked the boat slightly as I entered the lock, no problems, I never felt a thing and Jack was with Paul at the lock! I've witnessed a lot worse here than that!

The train line runs parallel to the canal for a long way now, but its not a fast line, there are stations everywhere along this canal. We have 2 swing bridges and 2 locks in the next mile to do and then we decide to stop if we can get somewhere to stop! Up Midgham Lock, and at the top we spot this perfect garden for us!

There's a space on the right after the lock with lovely cut grass and as the lock mooring is on the left, we decided to stop here. Mooring spots are few and very far between so we make the most of the sunny recently mown grass. We'd only done 4 miles, 5 locks and 4 swing bridges, but we were knackered.

Jack wasn't so lucky, we struggled to find any fields to let him run so it was a towpath walk.

Back at the boat we sat outside and soaked up the sun, played catch with the ball with Jack, we listened to an afternoon of Absolute 80s on the radio and had a wicked barbie. The sun goes in and so do we!

Our view looking up the canal as the sun gives up the ghost!

Next day, Saturday 8th June, cloudy and windy today, Paul walks Jack to the first lock and I discover that my good old faithful chair I sit on when I cruise the boat has gone! It's been stolen, chucked in or it's fallen off on the way (think I'd notice that it wasn't there tho!). So after raking around under water in the thick silt behind the boat, I have to move on, people are waiting at the first lock for me. So gutted, only cost a pound but its irreplaceable. Fitted perfectly, so right.

I did shed a few tears as I headed to the lock, blurted out my sorrow.

What's done is done, start of bad things to come today.... you'll see!

 We cruised through some stunning landscape, hills, trees blue blue sky and lots of green green meadows. We cruise up the next few locks and swing bridges with a lovely South African couple on a hire boat, Huk and Anna. They've got their hire boat for two weeks and are hoping to go to Bath and back! We've given ourselves two months to do the same!!

We went through another open sided lock, Monkey Marsh lock, but going in with another boat made it a lot safer and easier.

Ham lock was our setting for our next bit of excitement, just before Newbury. 

As we were about to leave the lock at the top there was a hire boat across the canal, bounced off the side and was going full steam sidewards towards the lock entrance! It hit the wall with a lump, and disappeared down the weir channel out of sight! After what seemed like ages they we in reverse, banging along the sides of moored boats, then somehow turned in the flow to face the wrong direction. paul and I ran to grab the ropes and we hauled the boat round the right way and onto the lock mooring. Safe, but shaken. the two elderly people (must have been in their 80s') explained he had fallen in the day before and he was still confused! They shouldn't have ever been allowed to take a narrow boat out, let alone on the K & A canal!

Safe and sound, tied up and kettle on - we've done our bit!

We carried on one lock further and moored up to go to the laundrette in Newbury. After the washing was done, we move the boat a bit further onwards to the town moorings. The river's flowing hard as we go through Newbury and towards Newbury Bridge. 

After a wide section there's some 24 hour moorings beside a very busy play park, but we make very slow progress as the channel narrows up and there's a strong stream flowing now. In the hard flow we made it to the bridge and saw two boats coming out of the lock. They should really have waited for me to get out of the hard flow and I could have pulled over on the lock landing stage, then they could have gone through safely. 

As it was, one came through and the flow was taking him fast and hard towards us. Quickly in reverse, boat veered over to the left, fast forward to the right, not enough, Paul couldn't get on to the side. All the time the boat that left the lock is coming towards us at a speed, he couldn't stop now! Finally I got the boat near enough to the side, Paul jumped off, I jumped off and we hauled the boat to safety and out of the way. The second boat then bombed past us too, narrowly missing us! Phew! Not a scratch! Now it's clear to the lock I put on the high revs to get under the bridge and straight into the lock where it seems like hundreds of people are watching!

Looking back from the lock towards the town bridge, looks a little less threatening from here!

Breath back, heart pounding slightly less, we got to the top and moored up in the 24 hour town moorings.

A trip into town and a new camera later (mine had stopped working that morning) we left there as it was busy and very noisy. Through Newbury swing bridge and round the corner we moored up. Its quieter, away from the pubs and clubs.

The towpath is good, Jacks got some great walks and the suns shining! But I've missed my chair!

Locking up in the evening led to yet another near disaster! I went out the back doors to take the tiller arm off in case it got stolen and plop! It fell out of my arms and straight into the fast flowing river! It's brass so we couldn't use the magnet, we poked and scraped the bottom with boat hooks and nothing.

Only one thing for it. I had to go in and get it! That's what I did, and it was freezing! I groped around with my big toe until I felt it, leaned into the icy cold water and got it! Yes! Whoops all around including from our shiny black wide beam neighbours who leant us there ladder!

I got straight into the hot shower and into my pj's! All's good!

We stayed here for a couple of days, exploring the fields and wonderful meadows, mooching around town, even buying a bar stool as my new chair for the back! Jack had the most amazing walks, we had a 5.5 mile cycle ride back to Midgham lock to see if we could find my chair, I fell off my bike on the way, we raked around again with boat hooks and a huge magnet and searched the whole area, nothing. Sadly I have to accept its gone. 5.5 miles back. No chair.

On Monday we walk Jack and were off again by 9.00am. Heading up stream, into the flow again, we go through one lock and theres no river!

The canal is so beautiful, the locks are back to normal now with the paddle openings coming through the wall and not through the top gates, threatening to flood out your well deck. Its so tree lined and amazingly stunning, lots of woods surround us. The fast flows of the River Kennet have left the canal and its proper again! 

Calm, amazing old locks and bridges, just like it should be! Quaint! So quaint as were approaching a narrow bridge a wide beam comes towards us. A minute later we had worked out that it was a horse drawn trip boat, the most amazingly huge horse was pulling the boat through the bridge hole. 

We had pulled over on the towpath side to let him through, not realising there was going to be a problem getting the horses rope over our boat. The guy in charge of the horse leapt on our roof lifting the rope over obstacles in his way, leapt on the back deck and nearly had my new chair in the cut! No problems hey! he jumped back on to the towpath and with a cheery wave from passengers and captain on the tiller, we were on our way.

A few locks later we arrive in Hungerford, into the town lock up and and we spot 24 hour moorings at the top.

After pulling over and having lunch Paul goes into town for bread and milk. Jack and I chill out, we've done 11 locks and 8.5 miles, the suns been shining all day and were very happy! Later in the day we take Jack for a brilliant walk over Hungerford Marshes, not marshy but amazing grazing meadows with shallow trout filled streams that Jack loved. We walked for ages, exploring the fields and walkways. Back at the boat Paul fishes and Jack sleeps. He catches a few fish, not what he hoped for on his first fish for ages. We then move anything moveable off the roof as there are notices about that there's someone nicking stuff off narrow boats around here, even our neighbour for the night came to warn us.

It was a quiet and peaceful night, no problems.

We do have to move from here today tho, so after another brilliant walk, although it was raining, we go into town to Tescos to grub up! Lunch was had back at the boat and the rain has now turned to drizzle so were leaving for a spot around the corner. 

We go through a swing bridge and the most remote lock I've ever seen, in the middle of the Hungerford Marshes, cows graze right up to the lock gates! 

There is also a swing bridge right over the lock, so that has to be dealt with before you let in the water. 

The meadows we've been walking are over to the left of us now, the marshes to the right. A little way on another very old lock, Cobblers lock with a derelict house on the lock that could be amazing with a lot of money spent on it!

We leave the lock and just above it we push our way into the reeds to get a place to stop. 

 After chopping down an entrance to the front of the boat, we were cosy in our little reed mooring by the most amazing meadows we've found yet! It's only a mile out of Hungerford but its so rural and peaceful here it feels so different.

We can't get a phone signal here, or Internet. But we've got telly! You can see why!

We decide as the forecast is for wind warnings gusting up to 42mph for Thursday, were stopping here for two nights. We walk and expore and tell each other how wonderful our life is! Jack swims, runs and runs in the meadows full of rabbits, he runs in the shallow clear streams that mingle with the fields chasing sticks! 

We can only hear a slight rumble of traffic from the A4, and the occasional train if the wind's in the wrong direction, but altogether its quiet!

We put our crayfish net out out over two nights and caught 42 crayfish! I made a great crayfish salad for our dinner, it was really tasty!
This will be our view for the next couple of days, our front garden and our back.

Next we go onwards further towards Crofton, the summit of the canal and on to Devises, the BIG one..... 29 locks (6 together, 16 in a flight, 7 together) in a day.......